Winter Wheelbuilding Class

Wheelbuilding is a skilled craft, and the best way to learn any trade or craft is by doing. Even better is to have someone with an expertise who can guide you along, and so for four Sundays in October and November, Parallel Handbuilt will be offering a wheelbuilding course.


With this course, you will be able to learn basic wheelbuilding by building off of theory and practical instruction. Starting on day one we dive into terminology, basic construction, and tool usage. Day two, three, and four you will begin to build your wheels. Ideally by the end of the fourth day you should be able to go home and throw your wheels in your bike and ride, but if that doesn't work out, there will be loaner truing stands to finish things up later on.

Class size is limited to four people, so if you're keen, sign up quickly. There will be a wait list in case anyone drops out, or just to wait for the next round. Classes will be given in Dutch, with probably a little English in between.

Costs are outlined below but the short story is... With this course you can choose to build your own wheels and take them home at the end of the course, or you can choose to build using parts from Parallel that will stay at Parallel for the next course. For those that would like to build and keep their wheels, there are a number of options for wheel use, brake compatibility, colours, etc., but the options are limited to DT Swiss, Hope, and Duke components.

Class and tool loan - €130
Wheebuild options* - €250 - €450
*This is optional, you may also chose to build using "class equipment", then the cost is only €100 but you will not be building your own wheels.
Coffee and cake - Free

Dates and times:
21 October 17h - 21h
28 October 17h - 21h
4 November 17h - 21h
11 November 17h - 21h
To enrol fill in the form below. Students will be chosen via lottery.

Naam *
Wheels *
Toestemming *

Tubeless Tires Are Not Annoying

Next to the holy question "What tire pressure are you running?", I would have to say that the pseudo-question "My tires are so tight, I can get them on or off" is the most common remark at Parallel HQ. Let's, real quick, dive into why that is...

If you're here, you're probably already familiar with tubeless tires, at least on the surface. There are of course a few different types of tubeless, including a special one from some old-fashioned French wheel "manufacturer", but I'm not going to go into that here. This is pure, general instructions on how to not suffer through having tubeless tires and rims.

Chances are, you are riding on "tubeless ready" rims already. But what does that mean actually? In short, that means that your rims have a sort of ledge on both sides on the rim bed (where your tire sits), and a valley in the middle. It is this valley where the magic happens, because those ledges are actually a slightly larger diameter than your tires.* Older rims and non-tubeless rim will not have this, so it doesn't matter where or how you put the tire on because there is little to no valley in the rim bed. A quick note to tie this into tubeless tires. Tubeless tires are designed, like tubeless rims, to be a very tight tolerance, this means that if a tubeless rim is made at a slightly larger diameter, a matching tire will be a little smaller diameter so it fits airtight.**

*Sort of. This is the idea at least.
**Again, rule of thumb.


You may have noticed that all wheels from Parallel Handbuilt come with tubeless tape, that classic yellow or blue tape. If the rim is tubeless compatible this means two things: one, you will be able too get your tires on and off even more easily (this tape is very thin), and two, if you chose to step over to tubeless tires in the future you are all ready to go... just throw in a valve and go!

Ok great. Now you know that tubeless tape is super cool and you have a picture of what makes a tubeless rims and tires different... but how the hell do you get the tire on? This is where that valley comes into use. Scroll on through the photos, we can meet after those for a debrief.


Make sure the first bead is sitting nicely in the valley.


Feed your tube in. Skip this step if going tubeless (setting tubeless up is not covered here).

Begin pushing the second bead onto the rim using one hand to guide the tube into place and the second hand to guide the bead. Work from the valve towards the opposite side of the rim.

Making sure the valve is pushed up into the tire, begin guiding the second bead into the valley of the rim. Here is the trick, if you guide the bead into the valley without "trapping" it there, it will just pop out immediately without you even noticing. So! Make sure to hold as much tension as you can on the second bead of the tire while doing this. If you are doing it correctly, you will feel slack on the bead every time you push a new section of bead into the valley.


Holding tension on the bead with one hand while the other works the bead into the valley.


The "other" hand.

Once you are sure the second bead is entirely in the valley, except where it's not on the rim of course, you can begin working the last little bit of tire onto the rim. This may still be quite difficult with a new tire or certain combinations of tires... I'm looking at you Continental.


Don't be afraid to use tire levers if it's just too tight, but first do your best to use your hands, but in both cases make sure tension remains on the bead at all times, otherwise you have to redo the last step to get that second bead back into the valley. When using your hands, use your entire hand and palm in a sort of "rolling" movement. I've got countless years of wrenching in my hands and I still can't get some tires mounted by just using my thumbs!


All done? Now, pump it up, listen for the "popping" of the beads into place, and then check that the bead is evenly seated by checking the side of tire or by giving it a spin! Not quite seated, try a little extra pressure (do not go over recommended pressure), or by using your hands to raise the tire into position. Still no dice? Try a lubricant such as bike cleaning solution or window cleaner, never a petroleum based product.